Kiyokawa Family Orchards
Created for Foodie Kingdom, a project of J627: Foundations of Multimedia Journalism
Kiyokawa Family Orchards
Produced by Austyn Steelman
Directed by Jenni Denekas
Written by Anna Wilcox
Videography by Jenni Denekas, Austyn Steelman, Anna Wilcox
Animation by Jenni Denekas
Photo by Jenni Denekas
ABOUT
This film is part of the series Foodie Kingdom, which focuses on local food in Oregon, including stories about restaurants, agricultural production, and food systems. Often, food becomes a vehicle for a more insightful conversation about a challenge the subject has overcome, a family story related to a certain recipe, and so forth.
All multimedia journalism master’s students at the University of Oregon take part in Foodie Kingdom during their first semester. Hence, this was the first “real” film that I created. It was a great learning opportunity to work with my experienced teammates, Anna Wilcox, a journalist, and Austyn Steelman, a documentary filmmaker. As I discuss further in the Teamwork and Lessons Learned sections, I am proud of how we collaborated, harnessing our unique talents to maximize efficiency and ensure that each person contributed equally.
In this film, we cover the story of Kiyokawa Family Orchards, part of the Hood River Valley Fruit Loop. This sustainable farm produces over 100 different varieties of apples, several types of Western and Asian pears, and a wide array of stone fruit—cherries, peaches, and more. Randy Kiyokawa is the third generation of his family to manage this land. He navigates farming with resilience, creativity, and gratitude.
Photo by Jenni Denekas
SOLO SCOUTING & SHOOTING
Excited and nervous to begin learning an entirely new medium, I took the initiative to scout a Foodie Kingdom story before the semester began. I wanted to find a subject with significant visual appeal (does it get any better than views of Mt. Hood and vibrant-hued apples on the tree?!). And, given that over 96% of farmers in Oregon are white I was invested in highlighting the work of a BIPOC farmer.
I was specifically interested in covering Kiyokawa Family Orchards because I had tasted some of their delicious and unusual apple varieties over the years. I had also heard a bit about their family history and farming ethos at the 2015 Hood River Harvest Fest. That was where I happened to stumble upon an author reading aloud an excerpt about Kiyokawa Family Orchards, part of the then-newly-released book Growing Tomorrow: Behind the Scenes with 18 Extraordinary Sustainable Farmers Who Are Changing the Way We Eat. This reading offered a glimpse into the history and present of this three-generation farm, and I was intrigued by what I heard. What can I say, I’m fascinated by the ways in which people adapt and create beauty in the face of challenges.
So, I bought the book.
Six years later, I reached out to Randy Kiyokawa about being a part of Foodie Kingdom. He was kind enough to not only agree to participate, but also to welcome me, a total stranger and a fledgling filmmaker, into his orchard, his home, and his story!
The first time I visited Kiyokawa Family Orchards, my partner and I camped near the orchard with camera equipment in tow and met with Randy Kiyokawa bright and early the next morning. He greeted us warmly and showed us all around his expansive property, including the u-pick areas, commercial growing areas that the public is not allowed into, and even welcomed us into his home.
He told us about his wide array of crops (including cherries, peaches, plums, pluots, pluerries, and over 100 different varieties of apples), showed us how to pick apples properly (and made us take a generous amount home), and talked about some of the unique benefits and challenges of farming in his specific location (including marauding elk and microclimates). It was an informative and enjoyable exploration, with the best guide you could ask for!
There was just one problem: I had the wrong memory cards.
Being a total newbie to video, I had brought some basic memory cards that were compatible with audio recorders and point-and-shoot digital cameras. And, having borrowed a friend’s equipment right before leaving, I hadn’t budgeted time to test my memory cards with the camera I was using.
So, there I was, on an impossibly beautiful day in the Hood River Valley, being given all of this amazing access… and I couldn’t film a thing. I resorted to taking photos and video with my old iPhone. It was better than nothing, but not what I had envisioned for the day.
Not to be deterred, I drove into Hood River before the stores closed on Saturday night. After a few tries, I found the right memory cards at Walgreens, tested them this time, and arranged to return to the orchard the following day. (This was a stupid situation but you can’t deny that I was determined to make it work!)
Unfortunately but understandably, Randy could not join us again, but he graciously granted us access and told his staff to expect us. Keeping in mind all the information he shared with us the day before, I composed a decent series of shots that captured the breadth of what the orchard had to offer.
Throughout that autumn, I returned to shoot at the orchard a few times and once at a farmers’ market in Portland. Rest assured, I brought the right equipment. I was never making that mistake again! On these expeditions I honed my skills with the C70—which quickly became my favorite of the cameras my school rented to students, because of the richness of the images it captured. It was incredible to watch seasonal changes unfold in this picturesque, volcano-ringed setting. I also enjoyed the opportunity to keep building relationships with the folks at Kiyokawa Family Orchards.
Photo by Jenni Denekas
TEAMWORK BRINGS IT HOME
Finally, it was time to pitch our Foodie Kingdom stories in class. Our cohort would divide into three small teams, each producing one story. My detailed pitch for the story of Kiyokawa Family Orchards—a multigenerational farm that has survived multiple hardships and now grows over 100 varieties of apples—made the top three. It was officially going into production!
I was joined by Austyn, a veteran filmmaker, and Anna, an experienced journalist and sustainable agriculture enthusiast. Although they were more knowledgeable about the technical side of creating a film, my teammates respected how much work I had put into researching the topic and building relationships. I became the director, while Austyn and Anna contributed their significant expertise behind the scenes. This formed the foundation of one of the most successful elements of the project: we were collaborating without ego, allocating work based on each person’s skills and with the final product in mind. This also enhanced our efficiency, since we had to complete this film in less than a month.
The major things we had left to do were: gather more b roll, interview Randy Kiyokawa, create the script for our film based on the contents of the interview, and produce the video. Due to scheduling challenges, we had to do this somewhat backwards: we would be interviewing Randy less than a week before our deadline. Normally the interview transcript would form the foundation of our film. Instead, we relied heavily on my research about Kiyokawa Family Orchards, the history of the Hood River Valley, and a pre-interview with Randy to get a sense of the story.
When Randy and I discussed potential directions for the interview, I realized that I had made some assumptions I should not have. Randy had shared some of the hardest parts of his family’s history in the book Growing Tomorrow, and I had thought/hoped that he would be willing to discuss that with me. However, he was hesitant to do so on camera and was concerned about his positionality as the one orchardist who often got media coverage, among a whole valley of growers who were not in the spotlight. He didn’t want to stand out more than was necessary. Of course, I wanted to respect his wishes.
This meant that we would need to retool our plan for the story. We would need to focus on Randy, rather than the generations that came before him. Our story would hinge on challenges he has faced in his career. This was the one part that we couldn’t research thoroughly, the one part we didn’t know much about. But, this might yield a tighter story arc. We revised our interview questions and hoped for the best.
In the meantime, we had some gaps in our b roll to fill. Thanks to my prior site visits, we had a lot of footage of scenery but very little with people, movement, etc. This was somewhat deliberate (many folks I encountered over the course of creating this story did not want to be filmed) and somewhat due to my own discomfort with approaching people (being a new videographer, I was still self-conscious about the space I was taking up with my big ol’ camera). Regardless of the rationale, we needed dynamic shots of people.
Randy and I arranged a time for my team to film workers pressing cider at the orchard. Prior to our visit, I prepared my teammates with background information on the space we’d be filming in—indoors, with low lighting and no space to set up additional lights—and the human element. According to Randy, many of the farm workers were not comfortable being filmed. We had to carefully balance getting our footage with respecting their privacy.
Further, space limitations and food safety regulations meant that only two members of our three-person team could film the cider pressing. Anna volunteered to explore the rest of the warehouse and its surroundings. With her photographer’s eye, she captured some great shots of machinery, crates of sorted apples, and our iconic “sad fruits,” fallen apples around the bases of trees, and lone pears still on the branch. These moody shots proved vital in our story!
Meanwhile, Austyn and I were under pressure to work quickly and precisely. Only a few workers didn’t mind being filmed, so they were pressing the cider short-handed. They were understandably eager to get us out of their hair and get back to working at full capacity. We worked as quickly as we could to make that happen, with Austyn and me carefully maneuvering our camera-and-monopod setup in tight, dimly lit quarters.
After all these twists and turns, it was time for our interview with Randy. Our cohort worked together the day before to set up the lights, reflectors, audio, and seating in our on-campus studio. We had covered studio lighting in all its granular detail in class, so we had the technical elements down. We also came up with a way to create a more natural background: shining a spotlight through an indoor plant to cast leafy shadows behind the subject.
Since Austyn and Anna were more experienced with the cameras, and because I had built a relationship with Randy over the past few months, I was the interviewer. I knew he had been nervous about the interview, and saw that he was still uneasy when he arrived at the studio. Based on our previous conversations, I knew that asking him about apples would make him light up. As he rattled off an impressive list of his favorite varieties, he relaxed and the conversation flowed from there.
We discovered that the crux of our story was the Alar Scare, a panic about pesticides that impacted apple growers soon after Randy took the reins of the family orchard in the 1980s. You could hear and see his pain when he explained that his family did not even use the pesticides the media was warning about, but he still ended up putting out boxes of apples along the roadside for 5 cents a pound. This was what inspired him to dig deeper into sustainable agriculture, offer u-pick, and begin cultivating a dizzyingly large assortment of apples and other fruits. This was his origin story—and he shared it openly and happily.
We had plenty to harvest from the interview footage. As our most experienced writer, Anna leapt to work constructing the script while Austyn and I worked on assembling b roll sequences that would reflect Randy’s story. (This is where Anna’s poetically sad pears and apples came in.) Austyn and I shared the decision-making on b roll, but she did a lot of the editing because she was more practiced with Premiere. She was still patient and kind enough to teach me a number of skills as she worked!
It was a mad dash to the finish line, and we made it. We collaborated successfully, captured some quality footage, and told a story that we felt proud of. More importantly, Randy felt good about it, too. Getting his stamp of approval meant the world to us!
Photo by Anna Wilcox
LESSONS LEARNED
Since this was the first significant video project I participated in, there was a steep learning curve. In spite of the challenges, I remember this project fondly and feel proud of what I learned, including:
Test all gear together before a shoot: That’s a mortifying mistake you only make once!
Build relationships well before you interview: This was something I did successfully and it paid off.
Don’t be afraid to film people: As a new videographer, I was trying to find the right balance between being considerate when people were camera-shy and being assertive enough to get the footage I needed. I found ways to push past my self-imposed limitations while maintaining respect for other people’s boundaries.
Let subjects lead the way: We had to course-correct a couple of times out of respect for our subjects’ privacy. Although this meant we followed a different path than we’d originally hoped for, we got a good story and kept relationships and our integrity intact.
Identify and utilize team members’ strengths: This was another successful element of our project. It helped us to be efficient with a tight turnaround at the end of the project and ensured we all felt like we had contributed something valuable.
Work with what you have: Tight deadline? Lacking footage? Interview happening too late in the process? We faced it all by remaining focused on what we did have and what we could control.
And, finally, the technical stuff: I learned how to use the C70 with a shotgun mic and with wireless lavalier mics, arrange equipment for a studio interview (lights, mics, seating, reflectors, and proper spacing for all elements), edit in Premiere Pro, and craft a story arc. Being paired with such knowledgeable teammates helped immensely!
Photo by Jenni Denekas